Over the last few decades, Philadelphia’s food scene has shifted toward local talent to better reflect the people who live here, and the results have been amazing, writes Osayi Endolyn for Conde Nast Traveler.

“Back in the old days, the attention was mostly for the big hospitality groups,” said Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, the chef and owner of the popular Thai restaurant, Kalaya. “But now people are more excited about smaller chefs.”

Suntaranon first opened her award-winning eatery in 2019 in the historic neighborhood of Bella Vista. The cozy space could fit 32 patrons. In 2020, she moved into a Fishtown location that seats over 200. She has continued to grow by cultivating an audience through meals that provoke diners to consider her culture beyond the usual staples of takeout menus.

Another popular spot is Emily Riddell’s celebrated bakery Machine Shop, where patrons create daily lines to try her famous interpretations of French-inspired pastry and viennoiserie.

Some of the local efforts in culinary community building have started having influence on the national level. Farmer Jawn, founded by Christa Barfield, is the largest Black-woman-owned farm in the country. Barfield, who operates CSAs at the farm and throughout Philadelphia, aims to make high-quality food accessible to urban residents.

Read more about some of the restaurateurs enriching Philadelphia’s food scene in Conde Nast Traveler.

_____