Numerous restaurants have struggled to find their footing since the COVID-19 outbreak. If anything, though, the pandemic sharpened the focus of West Chester’s Andiario. Its ongoing culinary excellence has again propelled it to restaurant critic Craig LaBan’s Top 10 list for area restaurants. The details behind why are in The Philadelphia Inquirer.

This intimate spot has been one of the most compelling locavore dinner havens in the state for the past three years. Its reputation stems from attention to detail, evidenced by a dining experience augmented by handmade pasta, open-fire cooking, and a close relationship with farmers.

When the pandemic altered traditional restaurant operations, Tony Andiario and Maria van Schaijik narrowed their focus. They replaced the à la carte menu with different takeout meals each week.

When indoor dining returned, they embraced an ever-changing $75 tasting menu that retains the spirit of spontaneity.

The menu now ranges from maccheroncelli with squab ragù and Green-Walk trout with chanterelles one week to soft-shell crab with pea shoots, chilies, and black locust flowers the next.

The dining room also features outstanding bread from La Baguette Magique.

In the future, they hope to start serving the pastured animals, orchard fruits, and beans cultivated on the farm they purchased last year.

Read more about Andiario in The Philadelphia Inquirer.