Amis Trattoria in Devon Yard, Urban Outfitters’ new multi-brand retail complex, offers hand-crafted Italian cooking in a casual atmosphere, writes Craig LaBan for the Philadelphia Inquirer.

Amis, which belongs to the Vetri family of restaurants, achieves just the right balance with its upscale quality and laid-back vibe. The restaurant is run by Brad Spence, who switched from his chef position at Vetri to open the trattoria.

Conceived for maximum flexibility, the menu offers simple combinations of good ingredients, such as the signature housemade bucatini with almond pesto and a touch of chili. The restaurant also steps things up with its porcini-rubbed lamb chops, best enjoyed with a bottle of Brunello or Nebbiolo.

Some of the other outstanding dishes include freshly extruded rigatoni pasta with milk-stewed crumbles of veal, beef, and pork, highlighted with the addition of zesty ground salumi scraps. The fat rendered from the house-cured pancetta adds an additional layer of flavor to the all’Amatriciana sauce.

Amis also offers a nice list of after-dinner drinks that ease patrons into generously portioned desserts, such as tiramisu and ricotta cake.

Read more about Amis Trattoria in the Philadelphia Inquirer here.

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