The latest addition to West Chester’s dining scene, Andiario, is one of the suburbs’ best new restaurants and the borough’s most sophisticated since the closure of Gilmore’s, writes Craig LaBan for the Philadelphia Inquirer.

The restaurant is run by seasoned chef Anthony Andiario in a former consignment clothing store on West Gay Street. The airy space has been redone with modern elegance and offers generously spaced seating in the front, and an open kitchen in the back that animates the entire room.

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Andiario’s menu is built on Italian techniques and spirit using the farmers, seasons, and local ingredients of the area. Among its best dishes are a veal carpaccio with blackberries and lightly pickled chanterelles and exceptional hand-rolled pastas. The latter allows chef and forager Tug Dulce to showcase his daily inspirations and discoveries, such as local black trumpets.

The restaurant recently received its liquor license and is currently building a small wine list.

Read more about Andiario in the Philadelphia Inquirer here.