The new Victory Brewing Company brewpub in Kennett Square has been open for a few weeks now, but the public’s enthusiasm has not waned. Though the new building boasts 220 seats, most nights still have potential diners waiting for 45 minutes or more to get a table. On a recent visit, I was able to taste 14 different items from their menu and hear from Chef Owen Kolva as well as co-founder Bill Covaleski.

Chef Owen was delighted to make a new menu that focuses on the local region, instead of recreating the Downingtown menu for the Kennett location. Indeed, only three menu items were carried over (worry not, the famous Hand Tossed Pretzel with HopDevil Cheese is one of them). New features include a Spicy Ground Lamb and Herb Salad, Kennett Burger, and Belgian Brulee Ice Cream.

Most impressive to my taste buds were some items that seem straight-forward when you read them on the menu. The Fried Cauliflower served on a bed of tahini and chopped herbs was delicate and flavorful. The Kennett Mushroom sandwich took the roasted Portobello up a notch with melty boursin cheese and fresh sprouts which Chef Owen perfectly paired with Golden Monkey Belgian Tripel. The herbaceous, creamy cheese was offset by the powerful carbonation and the beer’s herbal characteristics added to each bite of the sandwich.

Another standout was the House Salad. The mixed greens, shaved red onion, cucumber and Danish bleu cheese salad was tossed in a light white wine vinaigrette which was then paired with the Kirsch Gose. The slight cherry and tart flavors of the Gose added to the already light and refreshing taste of the salad, but the whole experience was taken up a notch by the addition of a small sprinkle of sea salt. It engaged every taste bud on my tongue and had me wishing for a second plate.

The brewmaster was testing the local Kennett water this week so that he could gauge its composition and begin brewing in the near term. The Kennett Square location will brew unique beers that are not available anywhere else – one more draw to this unique and creative brewpub.

Victory at Magnolia is open Monday – Saturday from 11am to Midnight, and Sundays 11am – 10pm. Their food and beer menus are available online here.

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Shannon Maria Jones is co-founder of Dashing Rogue, LLC, “bringing back the dinner party” by providing customizable beer pairing dinners in your home. She hosts the weekly podcast, “Beer Mistress’s Microbrew Review” available on iTunes. Visit www.BeerMistress.com for her beer reviews, pairing tips, and recipes.

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